Black Corporation: Joseon

As ranches increased throughout Joseon and more Jurchen people submitted to Joseon, the number of people engaged in animal husbandry gradually began to increase.

In addition, as Joseon’s economy grew, the consumption of meat among Joseon’s people also began to increase rapidly.

As this active interaction continued, private ranches operated by individuals began to increase in addition to the state-run ranches.

With the increase in ranches, there were some who became busier as a result: the tiger-catching troops (chakhogoon) and hunters who hunted predators like tigers.

***

As the amount of consumed meat increased, it was natural that the byproducts – organs, leather, horns, and others. – also increased.

The people of Joseon were also adept at using such byproducts.

Throughout Joseon, new meat dishes were created, starting with regional specialty sundae dishes tailored to local tastes, and accessories and household items were made using horns and leather.

Of course, Area 51 and its affiliated royal workshops were playing a pioneering role in making these accessories and household items.

Starting with belt decorations using ox horns, various types of products were made, but recently, the most popular item was gloves.

Finger gloves lined with well-tanned pigskin and cotton or silk lining were popular among the wealthy for their excellent comfort.

As they made and sold such popular products, the ledgers of the royal workshop recorded enormous income and expenditure.

“By the way… The amount of cowhide consumed is much less than the amount purchased?”

King Sejong, checking the ledger, called Hyang and pointed out the issue.

Hyang immediately answered King Sejong’s observation.

“We are collecting materials to make shoes.”

“Shoes? Even so, the amount seems too large?”

“We need to make a large quantity. They’re for military boots.”

“Military boots? Are these shoes for the soldiers to wear?”

“Yes, that’s correct.”

At Hyang’s answer, King Sejong pondered for a moment and then asked Hyang.

“What do these shoes look like?”

“They’re similar to wooden boots or water boots.”

At Hyang’s answer, King Sejong stroked his beard and fell into thought.

After thinking for a while, King Sejong asked Hyang.

“Would it be better for me to change the law, or for you to change the form?”

To King Sejong’s question, Hyang immediately replied.

“It may be disrespectful to say, but changing the law might be better. There are several reasons…”

“Hmm…”

As Hyang was about to explain the reasons, King Sejong let out a groan.

‘This son of mine…’

Grumbling inwardly, King Sejong summarized the situation.

“Even if I listen to your intentions, the ministers won’t let it pass easily. Therefore, you should explain directly to the ministers yourself.”

“…Yes, Father.”

Hyang bowed his head and answered to King Sejong’s words, but inwardly he grumbled.

‘Ah, damn! I thought it might pass easily!’

A few days later, King Sejong brought up the issue of military boots at a meeting.

“…Therefore, the Crown Prince wishes to make leather boots for soldiers and military officers. Discuss this matter.”

“Yes, Your Majesty.”

Under King Sejong’s watch, the ministers and Hyang exchanged opinions.

“The biggest issues are the budget and the design. Although it’s easier to obtain cowhide and pigskin these days thanks to people eating more meat, it’s still not a cheap material. Supplying this to tens of thousands of military officers and soldiers could be problematic for the budget.”

To Kim Jeom’s point, Hyang immediately responded.

“Shoes made of leather are durable and can be worn for a long time. Moreover, they can protect the legs of soldiers and military officers.”

“But the cost…”

As Kim Jeom continued to press on the budget issue, Hyang interrupted.

“Don’t soldiers wear darogi when they go into training or battle anyway? It’s easier if you think of it as the state providing those.”

At the time, Joseon soldiers wore thick leather socks called darogi along with mituri (traditional Korean woven shoes) shoes to protect their feet during training or battle.

“I understand.”

At Hyang’s point, Kim Jeom waved the white flag.

As Kim Jeom retreated, this time Heo Jo stepped forward.

“According to what you’ve said, these military boots seem similar to wooden boots or water boots. However, according to established laws, wooden boots and water boots are not items that soldiers can wear freely.”

According to a law added in the 2nd year of King Sejong’s reign, boot-style wooden boots and water boots were not something anyone could wear. Those shoes were the exclusive property of the upper class. That’s why King Sejong had mentioned changing the law in the previous conversation.

To Heo Jo’s point, Hyang immediately responded.

“Regarding that point, firstly, while they are similar to wooden boots and water boots, the material and design are completely different. No! From the start, they are not wooden boots or water boots, but military boots. They do not violate the law.”

“That may be true, but…”

At Hyang’s point, Heo Jo licked his lips and trailed off. As Hyang pointed out, arguing about similarity in shape when they were entirely different shoes was close to forcing the issue.

Seeing Heo Jo’s reaction, Hyang continued.

“Secondly, when people have some leeway, they always seek better and more comfortable things. It’s human nature. But if we say ours are legal while theirs are illegal, will the people comply? We need to change what needs to be changed. If the nobles want to be respected, they should earn respect through their conduct and virtue, not through their attire. Is earning respect through appearance following the way of the sages?”

“…”

At Hyang’s words, Heo Jo closed his mouth. With no further objections, King Sejong concluded.

“We will test these new military boots that the Crown Prince has made and then decide whether to apply them to the entire army.”

“We obey Your Majesty’s command!”

The scribe who recorded all of this added the following:

…Thus, when His Majesty decided, all the ministers, great and small, followed.

The historian says:

The Crown Prince’s eloquence is sharper than any famous sword in the world. I fear for the future. Even now, I get goosebumps all over my body just hearing the sound of tongue-clicking.

***

Having thus received King Sejong’s permission, Hyang gathered not only the leather workers belonging to the royal workshop, but also leather workers from Hanseong and its vicinity.

“So… We need to make military boots. You’ll have to work hard. In return, I’ll ensure the payment is certain.”

At Hyang’s words, the leather workers who had come from outside bowed and answered.

“How could we doubt Your Highness’s words? We will do our best to make them.”

“I’m counting on you. Then… Court eunuch.”

“Yes, Your Highness.”

At Hyang’s gesture, a waiting court eunuch entered with a chart and hung it up.

Hyang turned the pages with a pointer and continued speaking to the leather workers.

“These are the shoes you’ll be making. Come closer, examine them, and if you have any questions, ask.”

At Hyang’s words, the leather workers approached and examined the drawings. After carefully studying the drawings, the leather workers asked Hyang a question.

“Your Highness. The shape is similar to wooden boots, but is the bottom like jinshin?”

Hyang nodded at the leather workers’ question.

“That’s right. The shape is similar, but we use oil-soaked leather, and studs are nailed to the bottom like jinshin. Will it be difficult to make?”

At Hyang’s question, the leather workers shook their heads.

“No, it’s not difficult at all.”

“Is that so?”

At the leather workers’ answer, Hyang turned the page to show the next design. The leather workers’ eyes suddenly widened at the new design.

“What’s this?”

“These are boots for cavalry.”

“The shape is very unique.”

“But they’ll be the best shoes for cavalry. Will it be difficult?”

“The shape is a bit unfamiliar, but I think we can make them with a little effort.”

***

Hyang had three types of military boots made. Two types of tall boots and one type of short boot. The tall boots were for infantry and cavalry, and the short boots were for the navy.

All three types were designed to have basic waterproofing by using oil-soaked leather.

And studs were nailed to the front sole, while iron plates similar to horseshoes were nailed to the heel to ensure durability and prevent slipping.

Using oil-soaked leather and nailing studs to the bottom was not unfamiliar to the leather workers.

Not only the nobles but also commoners with some means were already accustomed to wearing leather shoes in their daily lives.

And due to Joseon’s rainy season, as well as the roads that turn into mud during the thawing period, nobles, regardless of gender, wore jinshin during those times.

Jinshin – also sometimes called jingshin – made of leather soaked in perilla oil for over a month and with studs nailed to the bottom, did not slip in mud and mud did not stick to them.

Of the two types of tall boots made this way, the ones worn by sword and spear infantry and artillery were in the style of the Soviet army during World War II.

“The German ones look cooler, but they’re terrible in winter.”

Knowing the winter of Joseon and Liaodong, which was second to none in terms of harshness, Hyang decided on the Soviet-style boot design. The roomy Soviet-style boots were very convenient for inserting insulation.

However, the masterpiece among these boots was the one to be supplied to the cavalry.

Both the infantry boots and the cavalry boots had heels.

And at this point, the leather workers had to face some difficulties for a while. Until then, the shoes people wore had a single-piece bottom. To be precise, it was a flat, single board. Whether it was ordinary shoes or wooden boots, there was no heel.

But all the new shoes Hyang created had heels. The infantry boots and short boots had heels made of hard wood about 2.5cm thick, and the cavalry boots had heels as high as 5cm.

The cavalry boots Hyang created were the Joseon version of cowboy boots.

***

In the 21st century, when Hyang ran away to build a ship with some foreign enthusiasts, he met many American enthusiasts. While learning about fandom from these enthusiasts, Hyang was also able to learn about cowboy boots.

“Hey, Jinho! People often call these cowboy boots or western boots, but to be precise, they should be called Spanish boots. And these Spanish boots are the ultimate cavalry boots.”

Just before returning to Korea, as Hyang was choosing cowboy boots as a souvenir, the American enthusiast explained in detail about the functionality of cowboy boots.

-The pointed toe, sharp like a blade, makes it easy to insert the foot into the stirrup.

-The space created by the high heel firmly fixes the foot on the crossbar of the stirrup. When the foot is firmly supported, it reduces unnecessary loss of power during a charge.

“The reason high heels became popular in Europe was to avoid the dung scattered on the streets, but men’s high heels should be seen as a continuation of the knight and cavalry tradition!”

“Is that official?”

“…No.”

***

As soldiers began to wear these newly made military boots, they attracted the attention of ordinary people.

The shiny boots soaked in oil and the body-fitting uniforms drew attention regardless of gender.

“Those look pretty good, don’t they?”

This favorable reaction from the people strongly boosted the soldiers’ pride.

Not only pride, but functionally, the newly issued uniforms and boots were quite good. When walking long distances, it was necessary to put some straw or cotton-padded cloth in the soles of the shoes, but it provided psychological comfort in protecting the feet compared to just wearing mituri.

In fact, there was an iron plate in the toe of the boot in preparation for any contingency. The purpose was to minimize damage from accidents that could occur while carrying heavy objects, including artillery shells.

However, what caught everyone’s attention was the cavalry boots worn by the cavalry. As the heel got higher, the back naturally straightened, and the chest had to be pushed out. As a result, it naturally created a tall stature and confident posture.

Before long, new orders flooded in to leather workers across Joseon.

“Um… Can you make shoes similar to those cavalry boots?”

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